In 2010, New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton posted a version of this dish as one of the 15 best things he ate that entire year. “It sounds like hippie chickpeas with spaghetti, I know,” wrote Sifton, before going on to praise it in prose that sounded more like poetry (it “evokes nothing so much as a coastal forest.”)

The original recipe was from the restaurant Del Posto, which had recently been awarded a rare four-star review. So I probably shouldn’t mess with it… But here goes: I increase the vegetable, and add silky ventresca tuna belly. And I punch up the flavor by replacing nutty grated Parmigiano Reggiano with sharper, more assertive pecorino romano.

At the table, this dish isn’t just food; it’s theater. Credit that to the bonito flakes. Native to Japan, bonito flakes are paper-thin shreds of dried, fermented fish. In addition to adding intense umami flavor to anything they touch, they bend and twist, crinkle and spin, when exposed to heat. Sprinkle them on something still hot: it looks like they’re dancing. 

serves 3-4

• 8 oz einkorn (or other ancient grain) spaghetti
• 1 15-oz can chickpeas.
• 1 Tbsp olive oil for sauteeing
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 1 large clove garlic, smashed
• 1 medium carrot, diced about the size of chickpeas
• 1 stalk celery, diced about the size of chickpeas
• 1 small, or 1/2 medium red onion, medium dice
• 1 6.7-oz jar tuna Ventresca in olive oil
• 1/2 oz bonito flakes
• high quality olive oil for drizzling
• good Parm or pecorino romano, ground
• salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. In a large, deep saucepan or Dutch oven, cook the garlic and rosemary in the oil over low heat about 10 minutes.
2. Raise the heat to medium, and add the carrot, celery, and onion. Stir often until carrots are al dente soft, another ~10 minutes.
3. Discard (compost!) the garlic and rosemary. Add the can of chick peas, including its liquid, to the mix. Continue cooking until the liquid is reduced by about half.
4. Cook pasta, drain, add to the pan, and cook another 2-3 minutes, stirring. Add about 2 Tbsp olive oil from the tuna jar, plus salt and pepper to taste.
5. Serve hot, with a portion of tuna, a drizzle of finishing oil, a dusting of cheese, and a generous sprinkle of bonito at the table. 

“An Oaxacan Lasagna”

I’ve always loved mole (pronounced mo-LAY).  Hailing from the Mexican state of Oaxaca, mole is a deeply flavorful sauce made from roasted chiles (don’t worry, they’re pretty mild), nuts, seeds, dried fruits, spices, and a little cacao.   The result is staggeringly complex yet completely harmonious, and goes down easy like comfort food – on rice, with meat, or over enchiladas (which we then call enmoladas).  The problem is, a good mole needs a few dozen ingredients, and a day or more of cooking.   Meanwhile, the stuff from a can usually isn’t worth it. Luckily, there’s a new brand called Ya Oaxaca that finally gets it right.  We’ll start there.   

There are vibrant green moles and piquant red moles.  I love them all! Here, we’re going to use the most famous mole, black mole, mole negro, which is mild and sweet.  Traditionally, mole is paired with pork, but we’ll go vegetarian with butternut squash, Pumfu™ (an awesome pumpkinseed tofu that’s high in protein), and black beans.  You can even go full vegan if you swap out the dairy for plant cheese.  And of course you can use chicken or pork, too, although I find they work better without the butternut, and with a sharper mole rojo.   (The dish on the right, above, is exactly that).

The end result is simple to make, super-delicious and quite healthy: nuts, seeds, plant protein, black beans, whole grains, and some vegetable.  And it serves like lasagna.   

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

• 1 jar Ya Oaxaca mole negro
• 1 15-oz can black beans, drained
• 1 10-oz bag frozen cubed butternut squash
• 1 ½ C broth (mushroom, vegetable, chicken…) or even water 
• 1 8-oz package Pumfu™ 
• 8 corn tortillas (I used sprouted corn)
• 6 oz shredded “Mexican blend” cheese 
• Optional: pickled onions or radish, cotija cheese, lime

DIRECTIONS

1. In a 12-inch Dutch oven or high-walled saucepan, simmer the mole with the beans, butternut and broth until it thickens to coat the spoon, about 5 minutes. 

2. Slice the Pumfu™ into thin planks about an inch long.  Add to the sauce and stir to coat.   

3. Remove and reserve 2/3 of the mole mix from the Dutch oven.  Spread the remaining third evenly across the bottom, and place four corn tortillas on top. 

4. Continue layering: spread half the cheese over the tortillas; half the reserved sauce/stew over that. Lay on another 4 tortillas, the rest of the cheese, and the remaining mole. 

5. Bake at 400 around 20 minutes, or until everything looks nice.   

6. Let it cool before serving, otherwise it will fall apart.  (Conversely, just let it fall apart).   Serve with pickled onions, radish, cotija cheese, and lime.   

This is the first dish I ever “invented” for myself in college, and I remember being quite proud of it at the time. It tasted great, contained all the food groups, was idiot-proof, cheap, and filling. I was a genius!  As the decades passed, my pride diminished somewhat (for example, I now recognize this as basically a low-rent jambalaya), although my enjoyment remains intact.     

With all its veggies and protein, this dish is a one-pot meal. It’s mostly not rice. But the rice is the glue that holds everything else together.  To be clear, this is no delicate, refined basmati pilaf where every grain is separate. We make this with short-grain brown sticky rice. It’s a sticky dish. It sticks to the ribs. 

Can you leave the meat out? Absolutely!  (You can sub in some veggie meat, or nothing at all).  Can you top it with fried egg? Absolutely! Same goes for sliced avocado or even a dollop of sour cream. Can you change up the vegetables, the spice palate, and the proportions? You bet. This is a very forgiving recipe.  

Serves 6

• 1 C short-grain brown rice
• 1 15-oz can pink or black beans, drained
• ¼ C extra virgin olive or raw sesame oil
• 16 oz ground turkey
• 1 medium-large red onion
• 1-6 cloves garlic
• 4 medium carrots
• 4 stalks celery
• 1 large or 2 medium bell peppers
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 2 tsp cumin
• 1 small can (6-8 oz) tomato paste
• ½ cup pecorino romano cheese (the real stuff, if it doesn’t say “pecorino” don’t use it)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Start your rice cooking. Two parts water, one part rice, simmer on low, covered, for around 45 minutes. Check towards the end if it’s drying out, and add more water as needed.  
2. Chop all the vegetables into pieces roughly the size of beans. Feel free to add some chili peppers if you like it spicy.  
3. In a Dutch oven or similar heavy-bottom pot, over medium heat, brown turkey in the oil, breaking up the pieces with a wooden spoon.  ¼ C oil is perfect if you’re using dark meat turkey. For leaner white meat, use a little more.  
4. Add all the other chopped vegetables, and continue cooking until they’re sort of soft, but not super-mushy.
5. Add the tomato paste, cumin, and oregano, and cook until the tomato paste starts to brown around the edges of the pot a little bit.  That browning gives you a little extra flavor. You’re going to want to stir and scrape regularly at this stage, with a wooden spoon. 
6. Now stir in the beans, cooked rice, and romano cheese. Adjust salt and pepper. Sprinkle on some more cheese if you want and/or some hot sauce. Or a South Indian podi (flavoring powder). Whatever. Enjoy! 

When the weather starts to get colder, on Sunday nights, I load two sheet pans into the oven: one with savory/spicy sausage and brassicas[1]; one with mild sausage and root veggies. The family picks through and eats what they like. And there are plenty of leftovers for grain bowls and other lunches into the week. The basic format is 2-2½ pounds veggies vs. 12 oz sausage. So 25% meat, 75% veggies.

I cook it low and slow. 375 degrees for an hour or more until everything is tender.  

Sweet Roots Tray

• ¾ pound red beets
• ¾ pound golden beets
• ½ pound parsnips
• 1 package (12 oz) Niman Ranch Apple Gouda sausage
• some good oil and salt

Savory Brassicas Tray

• ½ head cauliflower
• ½ head broccoli
• 1 red onion
• 1 package (12 oz) VT Salumi Red Wine & Garlic Sausage
• some good oil and salt, and maybe some black pepper  

Prep: you don’t want your veggies to steam; you want them to roast. So that means they go into the oven dry. If you’re going to wash them (I have to admit, I don’t), plan plenty of time for them to dry out.

Snap the brassicas into forkful-size pieces. Cut the roots and sausages into forkful-size pieces. They don’t need to be the same size or shape, but they should be the same thickness, so they roast at the same speed. Quarter your onion.

Toss: in a large bowl, toss the roots and their sausage together with enough oil to coat. Do the same with the brassicas and their sausages, but since all the little ins-and-outs of the brassica florets have more surface area, you’ll use a little more oil. Either way, you don’t need too much, because the sausages will start to render.  

Arrange & Bake: spread them out on their sheet pans, with at least some spacing, and only one layer. The more spacing, the more steam escapes, the more they shrivel up when baking. For the same reason, try and use a pan without walls. Bake at 375 degrees about an hour, turning every 10-15 minutes to make sure all the sides get oiled and roasted.  They’re done with they seem done.

Serve: this dish should be served family-style. You could sprinkle the pan with chopped parsley or drizzle with tahini sauce, to look a more artful. But I don’t.

[1] Brassicas (also known as crucifers, or cruciferous vegetables) are the family that includes cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, turnip, canola, rutabaga, choy sum, mustard, and all the radishes. Here, I like to focus on Brassicas developed from flowers and buds: broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sproutsa fork.   

Whole Grain Noodles  |  Organic Greens  |  Wild Boar  |  Cultured Veggies 

Sichuan Chinese cuisine may just be my favorite worldwide, and Dan Dan Noodles are in my Sichuan top 3.  The name means “bamboo pole noodles,” because the legendary street vendor who invented them carried a bamboo pole over his shoulders, with a bucket of noodles on one end, and a bucket of sauce on the other. 

And that sauce!  It’s hard to describe. I don’t have the adjectives. But imagine a richly spiced Chinese take on Bolognese… And having said that, there’s no one official way to do Dan Dan. Some Dan Dan’s are thin and oily, hot and salty. I like the dense ones, with thick sesame paste, browned minced pork, and pickled veggies for funk and acidity.   

At home, Sichuan cuisine has always seemed daunting to me.  The techniques are manageable enough, but the ingredient lists usually a whole handful of I don’t already have, and wouldn’t know what to do with otherwise.  Here we sidestep that issue, and get our Dan Dan sauce ready-made out of a bottle, from the fine foodie folks at Chinese Laundry Kitchen. We use whole wheat linguine instead of fresh noodles you have to get at the Asian market.  And we substitute Western fermented red cabbage (basically, sauerkraut) for the traditional Chinese preserved mustard greens, which you can never find without preservatives anyways.   It all works. It’s better for you. And it is drop-dead delicious.

Serves 3 as a main 

Prepare the Meat (or ***substitute): sautee the wild boar in oil until well-browned.  Add five-spice powder, soy sauce, black bean paste, and coconut sugar, and cook an additional minute.  Set aside.   

Prepare the Noodles and Wilted Greens: in a large pot, cook the noodles as per package directions.  About a minute before they’re done, throw in the bok choy to blanch.  Drain. 

Prepare The Bowls: into each serving bowl, place a heaping tablespoon Chinese Laundry Kitchen Dan Dan Sauce (mixed very well beforehand).  Put 1/3 of the noodles-and-greens in each, and top with 1/3 the meat.  Add 1-2 forkfuls of the fermented cabbage.   (Traditional recipes cook the pickled greens with the meat.  We don’t, so we don’t kill the live probiotics).  

Serve: bowls are traditionally served not already mixed up.  That’s done at the table.  Top each with minced scallions, chopped peanuts, black sesame seed, and whatever else your heart desires.  Bring a little more dan dan sauce to the table in case anyone likes it spicier.   

***vegetarian/vegan substitute for the wild boar…. Try 1 package Pumfu™ pumpkinseed tofu.  It’s like a green, richer, soy-free version of tofu.  Double the oil (since the Pumfu won’t render any fat), and then mash up the Pumfu™ with a fork.   

[editor’s note. I like Pav Bhaji a lot, I love it with melted cheese on top, and I’ve even had pretty good pizza where they use Pav Bhaji instead of tomato sauce. It’s also 100% plant-based, if you use vegan butter. So of course I’ve been wanting to run a recipe for the newsletter. Turns out our senior cashier Rakhi makes Pav Bhaji just about weekly. This is her recipe.

Pav Bhaji was originally provided as a cheap lunch for textile workers in Mumbai. It was, in the words of one writer, made from “all the leftovers.” You can use a similar philosophy here. Don’t feel constrained by precise quantities. Just make a mash from whatever you’ve got, and enjoy -Adam].   

Pav Bhaji is popular Indian street food.  Pav means “bread” or “dinner roll” and bhaji means “vegetable dish.” So Pav Bhaji is a mashed vegetable dish served with buttered Western-style rolls. Normally Pav Bhaji is about half potatoes, but when I make it for my son, I replace most of them with even more nutrient dense vegetables. -Rakhi 

Serves 4 

• 1½ C chopped carrots 
• 3 C cauliflower florets 
• 1 medium yellow potato, peeled & cubed 
• 1 C chopped red bell pepper 
• 1 C frozen peas 
• 5 Tbsp butter, divided + more for the rolls 
• 1 tsp cumin seeds 
• 1 C finely chopped onion 
• 5 Tbsp butter 
• 2 Tbsp chopped garlic 
• 1 Tbsp grated ginger 
• 1 C chopped fresh or store-bought tomatoes 
• 1-2 Tbsp Pav Bhaji masala spice mix 
• 1 tsp sweet paprika (optional for color) 
• for garnishing ¼ C chopped cilantro 
• for garnishing, lemon juice or lemon wedges 
• soft dinner rolls for serving 
• salt to taste 

Cooking method

1. In a pot, set cauliflower, potatoes, carrots, red bell pepper and frozen peas with 3 cups of water. Add 1tsp salt and cover the pot. Boil the vegetables together on medium heat till tender (around 10 to 15 mins). Using a potato masher, mash all the vegetable. 
2. In another shallow pan melt 2 tbs butter on medium heat, then add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle. Add chopped onions and sauté for two mins. Then add grated ginger and garlic. I use cheese grater to grate. Continue to cook for 1 more mins. Now add chopped tomatoes and mix well. Let the tomatoes cook for 3 mins until softened. Add the Pav Bhaji masala and paprika powder. I like to add paprika powder to give it more color. Now add the remaining butter, smashed vegetables and 1/4 cup water. Cook for another 10 minutes. 
3. Give a good squeeze of lemon and chopped cilantro. Top with the rest of the butter. 
4. Gently toast the dinner rolls, and serve well buttered. 

We shred summer squash – using a spiralizer, a julienne peeler, or by hand. That’s our “pasta.” And then we do it up aglio e olio style. That’s Italian for “garlic and oil.” E gamberi means “and shrimp,” and it’s the shrimp that transform what’s basically a glorified salad into a full-out meal.    

Now let’s talk cheese: there’s generic romano, and there’s pecorino romano. The pecorino version comes from sheep’s milk. It’s a million times better than a generic cow romano, and that’s a mathematical fact. If you use feta instead of romano, again, seek the sheep. Trust me.  

And salad shrimp… I love these! Baby shrimp, already cooked, super-easy, versatile, reasonably priced, and wild.  (Wild is important, because farm-raised shrimp can be pretty gross).  I add them to salads and slaws, omelettes, pastas, even savory waffles. And of course salads, for a punch of protein. Corn salad with shrimp and dill might be my next recipe… 

Serves 4 | 10 minutes prep | 10 minutes cook 

• 2.5 – 3 pounds yellow zucchini 
• ½ C good extra virgin olive oil 
• 4-6 cloves garlic, finely sliced or crushed
• ¼ C dried thyme, or mixed Italian dried herbs. (Yes, that much!)
• 1 16-oz bag frozen salad shrimp, thawed 
• at least 1 C grated pecorino romano, or feta 
• ground black pepper and cayenne to taste 

Instructions

1. Defrost the salad shrimp in the fridge in the morning. 
2. Spiralize or otherwise finely shred the summer squash into “noodles.” Set aside. 
3. In a pan large enough to eventually hold all the noodles, gently heat the oil with the garlic and herbs until the garlic just slightly softens.   
4. Add the zucchini, and continue to stir gently. Remember, you can eat zucchini raw, so how much you cook – nice and soft, or still a little crunchy – is entirely a matter of taste.   
5. Add the shrimp until they’re warmed through. (Remember, they’re already cooked!).  
6. Add some cheese, stir it in, serve with even more cheese